The Mission (North Park)

On the one hand, it seems pointless to review The Mission. It's the very definition of a review-proof restaurant; no matter what I say, good or bad, it'll be just as crowded tomorrow morning. On the other hand, I do think it makes sense to drop in on old favorites every so often to check back in with them. Restaurants change over time; menus change, kitchens change, service philosophies change (well, at least, outside of Hob Nob Hill, these things all change). That said, The Mission is exactly as I remember it from the past five years: tasty and cheap, with a dash of pretension for leavening.

Unless you eat late (and by late, I mean around one -- The Mission closes in the early afternoon), expect a wait. The Mission doesn't take reservations, a policy that many restaurants follow, but has never made sense to me. Is it supposed to be more relaxing? More convenient? It fails at both. Fortunately, we only had to wait for fifteen minutes before being seated.

I never feel like lingering in the North Park Mission's room; it's big and open, and therefore deafening. The seating is uncomfortable, although not distractingly so if you're only there for your meal. The large windows fronting onto University would seem like a better people-watching opportunity than it is; despite claims of North Park's resurgence, it seems limited to a small number of blocks, just a little east of where you can see. Check out the rotating artwork instead.

Service varies. Servers are usually friendly enough and prompt enough, but some visits you'll get your refills on coffee (and the Little Lady claims the coffee here is excellent, even the decaf) quickly, and some you won't. I suggest going with the flow; certainly, I never see servers hanging around, looking bored while their tables go unattended. The kitchen is speedy, so you'll rarely have to wait long once you've ordered.

The Mission specializes in coffee drinks of various flavors and egg dishes, frequently with a mild Mexican influence. That said, I rarely see people order either; for whatever reason, pancakes or the Papas Locos (potatoes, black beans, jalapenos, sour cream and salsa fresca) and Jones's soda seems to be a more frequent combination. Whatever the reason, the food is solid, a metaphor I mean in two ways. First, it's solidly dependable. While it rarely soars in execution, it rarely disappoints either. One advantage to The Mission's unchanging ways is the kitchen knows what it's doing. The second is that the food itself is heavy, especially breakfast, surprisingly so for the atmosphere, which, at least to my mind, suggests lighter fare. While not in the same league as, say Hash House A-Go Go, don't expect to clear your breakfast plate.

Lunch dishes are another story entirely. Light, and at least occasionally popping with bright herbal flavors, the afternoon meal seems to come from an entirely different universe. The sandwiches are served on a hearty, flavorful rosemary bread, and emphasize fresh, bright tastes, if not textures. The soup especially, at least the last time I had it, some months ago, tastes as if the main ingredients were herbs, rather than vegetables; while certainly not a complaint (I loved it), it is something to be aware of.

Prices are certainly reasonable, especially given what I suspect the owners could charge without damaging business. Virtually nothing over ten bucks, unless you start adding eggs and potatoes or sausage or bacon to your pancakes (and while I've had the French toast and potatoes before, it's a mistake; trust me). Refills of basic coffee and soda (including Powerade, for some odd reason) are free, if, as mentioned, occasionally challenging to obtain.

Despite it's review-proof nature, I think it is important to remember exactly what The Mission is; rather than treating it as an all-purpose brunch standby (as I think a large proportion of the uptown population seems to), I think The Mission should be gone to when you're hungrier, and poorer, than normal.